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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. However, nestled prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary honour.